Black Sheep Coal Fired Pizza, Minneapolis
In Minneapolis' North Loop, Sara, Andy and I visited this autumn's most-hyped pizza joint, Black Sheep. They're apparently the first coal-fired pizza in Minnesota, taking after the unfortunately dying tradition of coal-fired pizzerias in New York City (new coal-fired ovens in NYC are now banned but pre-existing ones are grandfathered in, leaving about 20 left in the city).
Black Sheep is situated a few steps lower than street level in a dark but very clean space that feels new. The kitchen is large and most notable is their large, shiny oven which primarily burns anthracite coal and is assisted by natural gas. Their menu is small, starting with a 12-inch cheese pizza for 7 bucks to a twenty dollar 16-inch pie with fennel sausage, hot salami, onions and cracked green olives. I was surprised to not find a margherita or even a quattro formaggi or similar pizza on the menu. They didn't have a pepperoni pizza either, which is only a surprise because they didn't have the standards I'm used to seeing on a coal-fired menu either and hey, it is Minnesota. I am not complaining: as with their small beer and wine menu, the few choices they offer are really great picks. I ended up ordering their tomato and oregano, which doesn't contain cheese, then added smoked mozzarella and garlic after a good recommendation on building my own from our waiter. Out came a fantastic smelling pizza with little wait. Like most coal-fired, the magic is in the crust: crispy on the outside and chewy inside with a very pleasing texture that isn't too doughy nor too airy. Another piece of the coal-fired magic is that the pizza is generally very evenly cooked all around and just crisp enough on the edges. It's a tad sweet: not enough to distract but just enough to notice. Just how I like it, honestly. All the toppings tasted very fresh and were balanced well. It's rare to find pizza in Minnesota that isn't overloaded with cheese, even with some Neapolitan-style pies. Black Sheep pulls it off. The smoked mozzarella was significantly different than the regular mozzarella and strongly recommended. Service was friendly and sometimes chef Jordan Smith will come around to ask what you think. Some have said it's their new favorite pizza in Minneapolis. I can't put it up there yet but I will say I can't wait to go back again. Read more buzz from Katie Cannon, Jeremy Iggers, James Norton and Sarah Fleener. UPDATE, JAN 21, 2009: Went for my third time this evening with my sister and brother-in-law. It was busy and had to wait about 40 minutes to be seated. We ordered their Tomato & Oregano and added garlic, smoked mozzarella and fresh tomatoes. I chatted with Jordan Smith a bit and he admitted he doesn't read many blogs primarily because of the temptation to respond to them. I told him that most everything I've read has been positive and that the pizza I just had was the best pizza I've had in months. It's true: right now, Black Sheep is nailing it. Black Sheep Coal Fired Pizza 600 Washington Ave N Minneapolis, MN 55401 612-342-2625