It's a good sign when there's more than ten people waiting outside for a pizzeria to open. I was near the front of the line at
Pizzaiolo and was thankful to get seated; normal reservations are taken only exactly one month previous to the day of dining although they do keep a few tables and spots at the bar for walk-ins.
Without needing time with the menu, I ordered a glass of Grignolino d'Asti and a Pizza Margherita. I was also brought still water in a glass accompanied by a 750ml glass bottle shaped like a wine bottle full of water. "Nice, I
am thirsty," I thought.
My pizza arrived in very short time and appeared to have been placed on my table within 30 seconds of it leaving the oven, it was steaming and settling from the drastic temperature difference between the wood-fired oven and the room. It was gorgeous: slightly more oblong than oval, thin, crispy yet squishy crust which was gracefully charred on the edges and bottom, and the cheese had beautiful spots of browning as if it was in the oven for just the right -- down to the second. I loved this pizza before I even had my first bite.
After I waited a minute for everything to cool down a bit, I grabbed one of the slices this pie was cut into, and it was just firm enough to stand on it's own without drooping. The crust was balanced perfectly for my tastes: sweet enough without tasting sweet, salty without being overpowering, and flavorful while still being a base. The sauce tasted like the tomatoes were pulled out of the garden a couple hours ago: fresh and a bit juicy. The cheese had a surprising amount of depth for being mozzarella. (update: it's mozzarella curd, as I'm
informed in the comments) A number of times I chewed slower than normal to try to catch the flavors I was going though -- it had a bite, but it was smooth and wet. This is one example of what divides food reviewers and amateur pizza bloggers such as myself: there was stuff going on with this cheese at the front of my tongue and the back of my tongue but I can't describe it.
Overall, this pizza was incredibly fresh. So much, it reminded me of
A to Z Produce's Pizza on the Farm in Wisconsin, where they grow and raise most of the ingredients on premises. Pizzaiolo is close, however: they
source their ingredients from locals, even down to the organic flour which is milled in Oakland. Speaking of close-to-home, the Pizzaiolo (or "pizza chef") of Pizzaiolo, Charlie Hallowell, lives with his kids upstairs.
This was my first stop on this trip to the Bay Area and I wouldn't mind cutting out the rest of my pizza stops to sneak back here every night.
Pizzaiolo
5008 Telegraph Ave
Oakland, CA 94609
510-652-4888
